The Donati estate is a family estate started in 1930 which is now run by the third generation - Camillo Donati, with his wife and children. They cultivate 11 ha of vines using organic and biodynamic practices. They are about 20 km away from Parma in the hillside at an altitude of around 250 metres with an eastern exposition. There are a number of diverse strains of the Lambrusco grape family, but the main Lambrusco grape of the Parma zone is Lambrusco Maestri and it is planted on flat plains because of its characteristic resistance to humidity and mildew, and also for its relatively abundant fruit. For this reason, the Donati do a severe pruning to produce low yields of better quality. All the grapes, including the white, are fermented like red wines, with skin contact, without temperature control, or enhancers at fermentation, no fining, no acidification or de-acidification, no selected yeasts, etc. These are natural petillant wines deriving from the traditional method of refermentation in bottle, a method that does not require preservatives and which makes this wine, unlike those produced in charmat method, age better. The wines are not filtered and are topped with a crown cap (a traditional closure for some decades in this region). There may be resulting sediment and the bottles should be poured somewhat carefully without a lot of intense movement. The Donatis make real (biodynamic) red wine that happens to be Lambrusco except that this is a traditional, unfiltered, bottled fermented Lambrusco that is quite dry and only gently sparkling. Slow food pilgrims who take their hunger, scrip and staff to Bologna and environs know that it’s possible to find interesting, well-balanced Lambrusco from artisanal producers and go ahead co-operatives. We are talking frothy and refreshing wines that one can sip on the piazza or enjoy with a pizza. Little of the quality Lambrusco escapes Emilia-Romagna; so seek this one out.
